Op een hifi meeting een paar jaar gelden was er een spreker (naam vergeten) die het volgende verhaal had over een -niet zo bekende manier van (LS boxen) - fineren. In het engels maar dat mag geen probleem zijn. Hij liet zijn zelfbouw boxen zien (1 meter hoog) en dat was heel erg mooi gefineerd; uiterst strakke afwerking, geen hobbeltje te zien.
ZIE OOK :
http://www.zelfbouwaudio.nl/forum/posti ... te&p=68517
zelfde methode .
Zijn methode komt er in het kort op neer dat je
box en fineer beide met een verfrollertje van houtlijm voorziet EN GEHEEL LAAT OPDROGEN. Daarna met (heet) strijkijzer aandrukken (hard drukken).
hieronder het verhaal. hopelijk komt dit niet te laat !!
mvg, Aad
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Take heart! There is an alternate method you can use. It's the method I used for veneering the rest of the cabinet. It entails yellow carpenter's glue and an ordinary household iron. That's right, an iron! No need for slip sheets, dowels, or gas masks. Here is how I veneered the sides / front using one continuous sheet of veneer.
As I mentioned before, I wanted to veneer the sides and front with one large sheet of veneer. I measured the length of veneer I needed to go from one side, around the front of the cabinet, and back to the end of the other side. I cut the veneer, leaving an overhang of about 1/4" all around. I laid the veneer over the cabinet, making sure that the overhang was equally distributed over all the edges, thus, squaring the piece. I made tick marks on both the veneer and the cabinet to use for aligning the veneer later. I also drew a line around the edges of the veneer for alignment purposes. Then I scuffed up the paper on the back of the veneer using 220 grit sandpaper. This allows the glue to be distributed more evenly. Making sure all saw dust is removed from both the cabinet and veneer, I applied yellow glue to the cabinet and the veneer.
I used a very small roller with a short nap.
This enabled uniform coverage and made spreading the glue effortless. I worked fairly quickly, leveling the thicker parts of the glue with a rubber spatula.
Although the glue is water-based, it does tackify quicker than white glue. For the cabinet, I did one side at a time, waiting for the one side to dry before moving on to the next side.
The glue is completely dry when there is no more creamy color present, and the glue gives the appearance of a coat of varnish.
Check to see if the cabinet and veneer are completely covered. If the coating doesn't shine, give it another coat.
I managed to put the glue on thick enough so one coat was sufficient. Once the glue was completely dry, I propped the cabinet on its back with a couple of 2x4s and positioned the veneer using the lines and tick marks I made.
With the iron set on "Cotton", I used the iron tip to tack the veneer into place.
Pressing fairly hard (I used two hands), I ironed down the veneer on the front first, working from the center out.
I put some heavy-duty aluminum foil on the iron to distribute the heat more evenly. I worked around the 1/2" radius, then on to the sides. I made sure all surfaces were covered and the veneer was glued flat to the cabinet. I check for "crackling" of the veneer, which is an indication that the surfaces are not bonded.
Problem areas were gone over if needed.
Once the veneer was completely cooled, I used a veneer trimming bit to trim the veneer flush with the cabinet.
I then cut the holes for the drivers and port, also with a trimming bit. All the edges around the cabinet were heated with the iron once again to ensure a good bond.
I carefully filed the edges, then lightly sanded to give a seamless appearance. Any scuffs or slight discoloration the iron left were scraped off using a SANDVIK cabinet scraper, then sanded with 220 grit sandpaper.
This process may sound like a lot of work, but it is relatively easy and the end result looks impressive.
Once the glue is dry you have about 3 days to put the veneer on before the glue begins to cure. However, I found that veneering right after the last bit of water evaporates gives best results.
The glue melts more easily, takes less effort, and the bond is stronger. The longest time for this process is spent waiting for the glue to dry. The top and bottom pieces were done the same way, matching the grain as best as possible. The veneered rounded over edges give the appearance that the cabinet is made from a big block of red oak.
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